With his flagship L’Enclume voted best restaurant in Britain and his newly opened Fera in one of London’s swankiest hotels, Simon Rogan has attracted fame as well as criticism. He talks to Jaime Ee about the pressures of living up to high expectations.
THE buzz in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto is hard to resist but, sometimes, packed trains, the fast pace of life and crowds can get a little much. Retreat, as I did in the midst of a holiday in Tokyo, and head to Ishikawa Prefecture, to a ryokan in Yamashiro Onsen. Its tranquillity is the perfect antidote to big-city living.