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- Weekender in Margaret River
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David Bowden
MARGARET River in Perth is probably the closest premium-wine region to Singapore.
And with many flights available to Perth, it makes it viable for the savvy traveller to hit the road and experience the region in a mere three days.
There, you’ll discover why Margaret River is considered one of the world’s best wine regions with an associated lifestyle of tempting local produce, gourmet restaurants, boutique accommodation and great natural attractions for burning calories between indulgences.
DAY ONE
If you’re travelling to the region during whale-watching season (September to December), the first thing you’d want to do on your way to Margaret River town (a three-hour drive from Perth) is to head to Port Geographe Marina in Busselton.
There, look for Legend Charters (www.legendcharters.net.au), which departs the docks at 9.30am.
During the whale-watching season, some 35,000 whales migrate between the Southern Ocean and the warmer Indian Ocean. Captain Dean Jensen and his crew will ensure that everyone gets within metres of these gigantic sea creatures to marvel at their size, speed and antics.
After exhausting your camera’s memory card of whales breaching the surface, it’s time to return to shore for the one-hour journey to Margaret River town. While the town is small, the region from Dunsborough in the north to Augusta in the south is 90km long.
Book yourself into Riverglen Chalets (www.riverglenchalets.com.au). These self-contained “homes”, surrounded by forest, ensure a travelling family will enjoy communal living with spacious living areas.
Freshen up and head to Xanadu Winery (www.xanaduwines. com) to taste its celebrated Chardonnay and lunch in the smartly designed restaurant. Enjoy a sampler entree of belly pork, scallops, oysters and quail.
After a short rest, burn some calories with a late-afternoon coastal walk departing from Smiths Beach. Join Cape to Cape Explorer Tours (www.capetocapetours.com.au), which operates several magical walks, such as to Conto’s Beach.
The tours, in the limited time available, will help open your eyes to this ancient coastline dominated by granite and limestone rocks.
But, ah, a day without visiting a winery – there are over 100 in the region – is not complete.
Still, you’ve got to narrow the “must-visit” list down, if you’re on a short trip.
After your invigorating walk, stop at Marri Wood Park Winery (www.marriwoodpark.com.au) to sample Julian Wright’s visionary and biodynamic Chenin Blanc wine.
Before heading back to Riverglen Chalets, drop by The Grove Vineyard and Liqueur Factory (www.thegrovevineyard.com.au) for its speciality beers and liqueurs like Turkish Delight. Owner Steve Hughes takes a fun approach to his trade so it’s a good place to relax a little with some fine distilled beverages.
Shower for dinner and walk into Margaret River for a hearty dinner at the Margaret River Settlers Tavern (www.settlerstavern. com). It prides itself on offering an excellent wine list, innovative pub grub and spirited live music on weekends.
DAY TWO
Staff at Riverglen Chalets will point you in the direction of the “Rails to Trails” walking track that circumnavigates the accommodation – a great way to clear your head after the indulgences of Day One.
Afterwards, pack your swimwear and head to the White Elephant Cafe at Gnarabup Beach (www.whiteelephantcafe.com.au) for breakfast in the sunshine.
The cafe’s big fry-up breakfast of eggs, bacon and sausages with brain-jarring coffee is equal to the setting.
Then, take a dip in the shallow waters or exercise with a paddle-board lesson (www.mrkiteandsail.com.au).
When you’ve had enough of the beach, head south to Howard Park (www.howardparkwines.com.au) and Hay Shed Hill (www.hayshedhill.com.au) to sample premium wines from two leading producers.
Both have a range of varieties, with Riesling from Howard Park and Tempranillo from Hay Shed Hill being two less familiar styles to sample and buy to take home.
After all the morning’s activities, you’ve now earned yourself a cleansing ale. There are half a dozen micro breweries in the region, with all producing exciting styles. Drop by Eagle Bay Brewery (www.eaglebaybrewing.com.au) to not only try its Kolsch beer but also estate-grown wines served in the recently opened restaurant.
If nothing else, visit for the panoramic views of the coastal and verdant farmland. Order slow-cooked pork with green olives and anchovies to appreciate why the restaurant is a hive of activity, especially on weekends.
With so much delicious local produce around, it would be a shame not to take some back home. Providore (www.providore. com.au) has an extensive selection of olive oils, pasta sauces, spices, herbs, jams and sauces which are all smartly packaged to make perfect gifts. They also sell fresh ingredients that are ideal for preparing your own meal back in your chalet.
Nearby, Vasse Virgin Olive Oil (www.vassevirgin.com.au) sells premium oils, sauces, soaps and aromatherapy products.
Return to Riverglen Chalets and spend a restful evening in the jacuzzi.
DAY THREE
After breakfast in your chalet, take the short drive to Margaret River Golf Club (www.margaretrivergolfclub.com.au) to enjoy a round of golf on a lush course which weaves through coastal forests that are home to resident kangaroos.
Drop by the Studio Bistro (www.thestudiobistro.com.au) where dishes like crisp-skinned barramundi roasted in fennel orange and pistachio creme brulee are just two of the enticing dishes offered.
Order local and some international wines by the glass or bottle. Colourful art by 35 artists adorns the walls.
After that, there’s still enough time to drive back to Perth if you’ve got a night flight to catch.
The author is a freelance travel writer.
HELPDESK
Local produce: 当地农产品 dāng dì nóng chăn pĭn
Communal living: 群居 qún jū
Pub grub: 酒馆的食物 jiŭ guăn de shí wù
Barramundi: 金目鲈 jīn mù lú
GETTING THERE
FLIGHTS
Getting to Perth is easy, especially with budget carriers like AirAsia (www.airasia.com) offering low-cost options. A search for flights on AirAsia next month found round-trip fares starting at S$634. Carriers like Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeairlines.com) also offer flights to Perth, and a search for February flights found round-trip fares starting at S$977.
Once you’re in Perth, Margaret River is 272km south of Perth, or a three-hour drive away from the city.
SELF-DRIVE
The best way to get to Margaret River is to drive. Rent a car from the airport or from the city (try rental service www.redspotcars.com.au for some of the best rates).
Visitors arriving via Perth Airport can take Roe Highway which flows directly into Kwinana Highway (National Route 1-State Route 2). People already residing in Perth should begin their journey by heading out of the city south along Kwinana Freeway.
Continue south along this highway, which becomes Forrest Highway, until Bunbury. Turn left at the first roundabout in Bunbury onto Robertson Drive (State Route 10). At the next roundabout you reach, turn left again onto Bussell Highway (State Route 10) and continue to Busselton. As you approach Busselton, go through any roundabouts and then left at the end (Vasse roundabout) onto Bussell Highway. This road will take you through beautiful farming country to Margaret River.
Information from the website of Margaret River Visitor Centre.

