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August 07, 2018, Cyprus

Cypriot delights

Wu Shangyuan discovers why a summer vacation in Cyprus checks all the boxes

Wu Shangyuan

SUN-KISSED beaches. Magnificent coastal landscapes. Roman ruins. Though Cyprus is a small island nation in the Mediterranean Sea, a one-week trip there can leave even the most seasoned traveller in awe.

The Cypriot capital of Nicosia shows visitors how unique this travel destination is. The bustling boulevard of Ledra Street is lined on both sides with shops and restaurants, but wander around the side streets too, as these hold the treasures. Souvenir shops, small eateries and craft stores pepper these alleyways, and shop owners are happy to have a conversation.

As we strolled down Ledra Street, our biggest surprise came midway down the road. To continue on our path, we needed our passport. Nicosia is the last divided capital in the world — split down ethnic lines.

The street was blockaded in 1974 after an Athens-backed coup to unite Cyprus with Greece. In retaliation, the Turkish army invaded the north. The island was effectively partitioned, with Turkish Cypriots and Turkish troops occupying the northern third of the country, and Greek Cypriots the rest.

Warming relations between the two sides led to the reopening of Ledra Street in 2008. With a passport, one can now cross between the northern and southern parts of the country at that location, one of several crossings between the two sides.

Once on the Turkish side of the barricade, my travel companion and I found ourselves in a vastly different environment.

We had passed big brand-name shops and fancy cafés on the Greek Cypriot side, but were now standing amid kebab stalls and local shops selling Turkish delight and fresh produce.

In a maze of sand-coloured buildings, we found the Hamam Omerye, a Turkish bath housed in a 14th century building; the Selimiye Mosque, which was converted from a former Roman Catholic cathedral; and the 16th century Büyük Han, or Great Inn, with its open courtyard and domed mosque.

Locals told us the seaside town of Kyrenia, 19km away on the Turkish side, would make a perfect day trip. Against the backdrop of the Pentadaktylos Mountains and Kyrenia Castle, believed to have been first built by the Byzantines in the 7th century, the harbour at sunset was a sight to behold.

Brimming over with boats and busy restaurants on its boardwalk, it caught the light in all the right places — a perfect place to enjoy a relaxing evening.

Back on the Greek Cypriot side, the seaside city of Limassol offered us another energising boardwalk experience — sculptures, fountains and cafés line the wide boulevard, which leads to the Old Port and its stylish restaurants and gelato parlours.

We walked to Limmasol Castle to explore our food options — restaurants surrounding this mediaeval structure offer some of the best grilled meats, sausages and seafood.

To walk off our full tummies, we strolled to the Limmasol Public Garden, home to the annual wine festival. Held every August and September, it is the perfect place to enjoy free wine-tasting, good food and energetic cultural performances that will get you on your feet dancing.

Endless offerings

We rented a car and travelled down the coast and into the interior.

Along the south-west coastline, we visited the mediaeval castle of Kolossi and the archaeological site of Kourion, featuring an immaculately preserved Greco-Roman theatre that dates back to the 2nd century BC, a Roman agora with many columns and ornate carvings still intact, and tiled mosaics on the hillside.

History buffs will delight in the Roman ruins along the coast. Cyprus was ruled by the Romans from 31 BC until it came under the Byzantine Empire in the 4th century.

The Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates, once an important religious site, features the ruins of Apollo’s Temple and other monuments dating back to the 1st century AD.

The Unesco World Heritage Site and archaeological park in Paphos contains some of the world’s most beautiful Roman mosaics and the Tomb of the Kings, underground chambers believed to have been used as burial sites of aristocrats up to the 3rd century AD.

For a peek into the Byzantine era of Cypriot history, we headed into the Troodos Mountains, past breathtaking scenery along winding mountain roads to the village of Omodos with its cobblestoned paths. We were transported back in time as we wandered the quaint streets peppered with traditional tavernas, all serving famous local wines, and visited the stoic Timios Stavros Monastery.

The natural landscapes in Cyprus are also awe-inspiring. Driving down the south-west coast, we saw the massive rock formations at Petra tou Romiou, the mythical birthplace of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. These rocky outcrops rise skywards, their jagged forms and greyish white colour a sharp contrast to the calm blue of the water.

On the south-east coast, a short hike to the top of Cape Greco led us to a jaw-dropping view of the coastline that stretches to the horizon.

The legendary sea caves a short distance away by car is a true wonder of nature. Its deep dark caverns, set into the edge of the cliffs, are carved out of centuries of waves crashing into the rocks.

Young people line up here to dive off the 10m-tall cliffs into the pristine waters, which was such a clear shade of turquoise that you can see right to the seabed where the corals lie.

On our last afternoon, we went to the resort town of Ayia Napa. Past the endless shops, restaurants, bars and ice-cream parlours, we found ourselves a restful spot to enjoy the beach and blue waters that this island is so well known for.

GETTING THERE

We flew from Singapore to Larnaca on Emirates, with a stopover in Dubai.

TRAVELLER’S TIPS

■ Plan road trips along the southern coast and into the interior mountainous region.

■ Temperatures in summertime can go up to 37 deg C, so always have your sunglasses, hat and sunscreen with you.

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Enjoy durians at the source in Penang

IF YOU’RE headed to Penang this month and you’re a hardcore durian fan, then you’d want to hit the durian farms in Balik Pulau to feast rather than settle for stalls in town.

Farther away from the city centre, the price of durians at the farms are by the kilogram.

You could even make an enlightening eco-excursion out of it, rather than just have a durian buffet.

Farms such as Green Acres and Bao Sheng Durian Farm offer a different proposition, as their fees include a tour and discussion on sustainable farming and durian growing.

It’s better to call ahead to “book” your timing, especially if your party is large. Okay Jungle Durians is a good place to start as it has a range of kampung, or “wild”, durians and branded durians, and it’s easy to get to.

Green Acres is more of an adventure, and is located about a 10-minute drive up the narrow road after Okay Jungle Durians. It’s well worth a visit, though, for the experience and the views. You definitely have to book ahead. For RM80 (S$28.50) per person, visitors get a tour of the farm and unlimited supply of whatever fruit are in season.

For a pleasant, leisurely durian eating experience, Stone House on the other side of Balik Pulau has a large porch filled with about nine big tables for you to have your buffet of durians. The setting is also very idyllic, with a view of Stone House’s landscaped grounds.

Lastly, both amateurs and connoisseurs should head to Bao Sheng Durian Farm, also on the Sungai Pinang side, if they really want to find out about Penang’s durians. The farm is one of the first to go organic, and Chang Teik Seng, or Ah Seng as he’s called, is an excellent “teacher” of all things durian. The farm is located in Sungai Pinang, on the road towards Teluk Bahang or Batu Feringghi.

It offers a “two-hour pass” which includes a 15-minute farm tour, tropical fruit and unlimited durians in two hours.

There are four sessions daily: 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm. Prices start from RM55 for all varieties of young trees, RM75 for trees more than 40 years old and RM120 to include newly dropped durians for that “numb” taste.

- OKAY JUNGLE DURIANS
Titi Serong, Balik Pulau;
GPS: 5°19’48.4”N 100°13’01.5”E
Contact Mr Choy on +6012-571-1557

‡‡- GREEN ACRES
GPS: 5°22’17.0”N 100°14’57.6”E
Contact Kim on +6012-428-6368 or
e-mail greenacrespenang@gmail.com

‡‡- STONE HOUSE
127, Mukim 2, Sungai Pinang;
GPS: 5°23’54.0”N 100°12’50.3”E
Contact Mr Tan on +6012-538-5128

‡‡- BAO SHENG DURIAN FARM
Sungai Pinang;
GPS: N 5.24. 1755 E 100.13.165
Contact +6012-411-0600/
+6012-401-0800 to book your time slot

THE BUSINESS TIMES

天堂的原乡 游毛里求斯 享尽浪漫

在非洲地图上,顺着马达加斯加的边缘朝东移动,有一个不起眼的小点,就是被誉为“印度洋上明珠”的海岛国家毛里求斯。

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